Sailing, we are sailing

Three coffees this morning, by the time we sailed away from Stari Grad!  We stocked up on provisions this morning, had our coffee and wifi fix and sailed away.  But this time we really did sail.  We travelled for some time before Nico said that there was sufficient wind to put the sails up, and for the first time this week, we all had to work together, muscle up and put the sails up.  It was an excellent experience.  And when we turned the engine off, we suddenly noticed the sound of the waves crashing, although the sound had been there all along.  It was calm and peaceful, the sun was out, and all was good in the world.

Unfortunately the wind died away relatively quickly and we had to bring the sails down again and turn the engines back on.  Nico sailed to another beautiful spot with a secluded beach.  The waters stunning.

Here is a photo of Karen, Kate and Dee all jumping into the water at once.  The aim was to get an action shot.  We've been practicing all week.  Although this is a good shot in terms of timing, I didn't realise that the girls are actually blurry in it.  Oh well, we had fun trying.

After a swim and lunch and just idling in this beautiful part of the world for quite some time, we eventually sailed off again, this time the destination of Milna on the island of Brac.

Nico reversed the boat into dock, only to be told we couldn't park there, so we had to go to the Marina which wasn't too far away.  And at the Marina there were proper showers that we could use.  Dee and Amy went off for a shower and soon after so did I.  It was nice to be able to stand under running water, without having to turn it off to wash your body or hair, to save water.  And so even though I wasn't due to wash my hair, I did anyway, just because the luxury was available.

When I got back to the boat, some of us went out for a walk and took some photos.  Including this one using the timer function.  It was quite a feat getting onto the wall and facing the right direction within ten seconds.  (Isabella is missing from this group photo, and Nico of course.)

Karen and Kate in similar colour clothing against this amazing coloured garage door.

After the walk and photos we went for a drink, then went to dinner.  It appears that there is some boat race happening though, and there are lots of people in town and we had to wait for an hour for our pizzas to arrive.

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Post published day after.

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To Hvar and Stari Grad

Potentially these posts are getting very boring for the reader.  I feel like I'm not doing anything and have nothing to report except that I laid in the sun, we sailed, we stopped off at a gorgeous old town in Croatia, we ate, we sailed again, and repeat.  Well yesterday was no different, except that for me, the landscape is still magnificent, and I am still enjoying every single moment, and that I am more relaxed than the day before (if that's even possible).  

For me, the days are running into each other, and because I didn't write this post last night, and I am writing on Thursday morning, I can't remember where I was exactly yesterday morning.  Oh well, I don't suppose it really matters.  I do know that the weather was potentially the hottest day we've had yet.  And it was just beautiful sailing to Hvar from wherever we were.

Hvar wasn't really on the itinerary, but Nico kindly stopped there for a few hours so we could explore the place for a bit.  We had to walk a bit to get to the town, but everyone appreciated the exercise.  (Seriously, we have been doing beautiful nothing in the most non-boring way ever.)  We all stopped and had a coffee/iced coffee.  The others wandered off, and I think they went to the old walled town.  I stayed back at the cafe a bit longer then wandered around the town.  Up narrow alleys and stairs, just exploring.  Lovely.  I purchased a cute little t-shirt from a tiny shop in a back alley.  Nico had told us that Hvar was a party town and when I strolled along the wharf I saw all the boats and the pile of Aussies disembarking.  Definitely very 'touristy', but gorgeous all the same.

From Hvar we sailed around the island to Stari Grad, a beautiful little spot.  So quaint and so pretty.  We all split off and wandered around the town taking photos.  I had a drink at a bar before meeting the others back at the boat so that we could make our way to dinner.

For dinner I had Sea Bass and salad.  Dee had a fish stew which I had a taste of, and it tasted exactly like the one my mum makes.  So authentic and home made.  Delicious.  Nico ordered a variety of desserts for us to try, but I was too full and just tasted two of them.  After dinner the others stopped into a bar for a night cap, but I went back to the boat for an earlier night.

This morning I got up and went to the local bakery for a Krafen (amazing), and I am just sitting here writing this at a cafe after my espresso and flat white.  The sun is shining, it is another beautiful day.  But I have to say I am surprised at how many Europeans still smoke.  I have had to move tables because second hand cigarette smoke was really getting to me this morning.  It appears smoking is still the social norm, and accepted.  It is disappointing that I can't have a coffee without cigarette smoke bothering me.  I hope this changes soon...

Coffee, Sailing and Spoons

This morning I awoke with a bit of a hangover.  I drank far too much last night.  But the morning consisted of all of us going out for coffee after we were all up, but before anyone had eaten breakfast.  We also had to fill the water tank which took a bit of time so I took the opportunity to get rid of some rubbish and recycling we had collected over the first few days.  Kate and I also went out and had another coffee.

After breakfast and with the water tank now full, we sailed off.  And we sailed for a bit before stopping for lunch and a swim.  After lunch I had to go have a snooze as I had quite a hangover.  I didn't help matters when, getting onto the bed I hit my head on the roof of the cabin.  I now have a big lump on my head.  

I don't know how long I slept for, but I felt a bit better afterwards.  And we just sailed off to a small island.  When we arrived, I helped anchor the boat, but poor Matt has been stuck with doing most of the crew work.  The bay of this island is beautiful and the waters turquoise.  We just chatted, listened to music and wasted time.

Nico cooked dinner again tonight, and everyone loved it.  Pasta with chicken, pancetta and zucchini in a cream sauce.

After dinner we just talked some more, then played a bit of celebrity head, then we went inside and played the card game spoons, which was all very funny.

We are still anchored in the same bay, at a secluded island, with only a couple of boats around.  We are staying here the night.  Not a sound to disturb us.  Peaceful bliss.

If I was any more relaxed I'd be in a coma.

This post will be published when I get internet probably sometime tomorrow.

The measure of Kwells

This morning I was up early, after I had best the nights sleep last night.  One of those sleeps where you wake up and you know you've rested.  A couple of others were up but I decided I needed to go out for an espresso.  This time I wandered in the opposite direction of where I had gone yesterday.  I saw a bakery and got a slice of Apple strudel (I probably should have gone the cherry but the apple is so trustworthy), then I got an espresso from another cafe.  

Lady N

I got back to the boat and everyone had left and only Karen was around.  She got herself some breakfast and then we lazied on to get a coffee.  Karen was worried that all the others had gone to the lakes in the National Park so we went back and checked with Nico and he told us they had.  We then grabbed the next shuttle to the Lakes.  We stopped at the most beautiful place in the world and went for a swim.  Then we sunned ourselves and went for a walk.  We knew we had to be back at the boat by 11.00, and so at about 10.45 we started to wander back and then commenced down the wrong road.  Ten minutes in we realised and turned back and were lucky enough that we happened to score the van back into town straight away.  We thought everyone would be waiting for us, but as this is such a relaxed holiday, we should have known they would be having coffee etc.

On the boat, and we were on our way.  I pretty much just listened to music and sat in the sun whilst we sailed for quite some time before we anchored.  Nico started making lunch whilst everyone else went for a swim.  I helped chop garlic and tomatoes, but Nico made a great pasta.  All whilst we were anchored in the most beautiful part of the world.  Indescribable.

After lunch we sailed to Korcula where Nico dropped us off.  By this time I had already had a few wines (with lunch), and we went exploring through the town of Korcula.  

We then went to this cocktail bar that had the narrowest of steps/ladder to the top of an old tower.  At the top we all ordered cocktails and I sat on the old wall and started chatting to this guy who was sitting by himself.  Turned out he was Italian and he spoke little English.  His name was Mauro, and we spoke for ages.  He was riding around Croatia.  He was such a lovely guy.  We were laughing about how these old ladies would feel sorry for him and they would offer him bed and breakfast for only 40€ because he must have been "absolutely exhausted" after his ride.  

After navigating our way down the ladder down to solid ground, we found a place to eat and I had a lovely chat with Dee and Kate.  After dinner the girls wandered into a nearby jewellery store where I managed to very quickly, purchase three items!  But trust me, I paid a lot less for them than had I purchased them in Australia!

From there we grabbed a taxi to the port where Nico and Lady N would be waiting for us.  Having had a couple more wines at dinner, I really should have known better, but I went with the others to a nearby pub.  For some reason I started talking Italian to the waiter and the others were wondering why I knew he spoke Italian.  I didn't.  But one must try these things.  I had a couple of capiranahs by which time I was well and truly tingling.  The group had a good ol' chat, and a laugh and then eventually went back to the boat where Nico had left the light on for us.  We ate a pack of chips and kept on talking.  Dee said something about how many kwells she had taken today and I joked about how we measure time in kwells whilst on this holiday.  Eventually everyone went to bed.  Which is exactly what I am about to do now.  Good night!

Lady N

Last night felt like one of the worst nights sleep ever.  There were so many strange noises, and the boat rubbing against the fenders (at least I think that's what was happening), sounded like a trumpeting noise right inside the cabin.  I'm sharing with Kate, and she too didn't sleep much and we were both tossing and turning, probably making it worse for the other.  On top of that, there were mozzies coming in through the tiny window, buzzing around us.  One even got underneath my bed cover!  OMFG!

The name of our boat is "Lady N" (for Nina?).

And then this morning at around 6.30, I was well and truly wide awake, so I figured I may as well get up.  I tried to make as little noise as possible and had a shower (interesting experience in a tiny confined space and trying to use as little water as possible).  Then I simply left everyone else asleep on the boat and went for a walk.  I walked along where they collect the salt from the water.  When I got back to the boat I got myself some breakfast and then eventually everyone else got up.

I then had to go get an espresso and so I went to the nearest cafe, ordered an espresso, and then a cappuccino and skyped Todd.  After that I went for a walk along the great wall where I met up with Amy, Dee and Matt.  We spent a bit of time watching a video about the history of Ston too.

By 11.00 we were all on the boat again and off we sailed.  And pretty much we have done nothing.  For part of the day I lay on the front of the Catamaran and caught some rays.  Chatted to the others.  Then we had lunch, and Nico had a go at us (the crew), for having gone shopping and not purchased olive oil and salt.  Good point.  We stopped for a swim at a beautiful secluded beach.  It was gorgeous.  So pretty.  I felt like it was a site from the movie 'The Beach'.  Then we sailed for quite a while and stopped again for another swim, where even Nico got in the water this time.  At this anchor, we stayed for quite some time and we were all chatting on the boat.  It was lovely.  This is the life.

From there we sailed to Polace.  I got off the boat pretty quickly and took off up into the National Park.  After quite a way up the road I saw this gravel road that if I tripped and broke a leg, no-one would have found me till God knows when, but I was determined to get down to the shore, as I knew this is where it would lead.  I walked down, and through the trees I could peak at the crystal clear blue water.  But I was well and truly horrified by what I saw when I got to the waters edge.  The water had washed up what rubbish ends up in the sea, and there was just all these bits of plastic underneath my feet.  It was awful.  Little bits of everything, just so much awful plastic.  This is a beautiful piece of the world, and as I was walking down I was so excited to have this place to myself, instead, I was disgusted by what I saw.  I was then reminded of a documentary I saw or it might have been a YouTube video about how much plastic ends up in the sea, and then the fish ingest it, and all sorts of implications there on in.  People, you MUST RECYCLE.  It is so god-damned important.  And don't be so bloody wasteful either!

I hiked back up the trail, then down the hill I had come up, to get back to the boat.  After everyone was back at the boat we all went to the restaurant for dinner.  I had groper fish (did I spell that right?), which was lovely, and almost like eating a piece of steak.

Being as exhausted as I was though, I left my money for the dinner and went back to the boat to try and get an early night.  Although I suspect that will be fruitless as I will hear everyone when they get back.  Let's see how we sleep tonight.

 

Catamaran to Ston

Last day in Dubrovnik today.  Usual start to the day, but got a good cappuccino as well as espresso today, and apple strudel for breakfast!  Winning!

I pretty much just packed after breakfast then hit the beach, nay, wharf.  Yep, just laid my beach towel down on the cement with the locals and caught me some rays.  Spoke to an English guy who was on holiday with his mates.  They were all jumping in to the water off the rocks.  Me and this kid, turns out, both have relatives who have paralysed themselves by diving into waters.  So we just thought they were nuts.

I went and had pizza for lunch, which wasn't too bad, then went back to the wharf again and watched this old local guy shampoo his hair in the sea water.  Yep, he just grabbed the bottle of shampoo, soaped himself, rinsed it in the sea water, soaped himself again, then rinsed it off by going for a swim.  What the fuck?

At around 2.00 I caught a taxi to the meeting point.  Met some of the others on the tour.  One of the first conversations I had with Deanna and Amy was that we were worried that the group would be 20 year old Aussies, as which point we had all decided separately that we would just ditch the tour and go our own way.  I cannot tell you my relief when I met them.  They were two gorgeous girls, so friendly, and with the same thought processes as me.  Scary!  Lisa, I have to tell you, Deanna reminds me of you in so many ways, that I just can't describe.  I already love her because of how she reminds me of you!  She talks like you, sounds like you, and in some ways thinks like you.

The skipper, Nico, then introduced himself to us three and told us that we were very lucky.  We had scored a catamaran.  The boat we were supposed to have had broken down.  The catamaran is so much bigger.  

We then met the others (total of eight of us including the skipper) and made our way to the boat.  We familiarised ourselves with the boat, learnt a few terms, and headed on our way.  Some way along we anchored, and a few brave people jumped in and had a swim (I should point out that there is only the skipper and one other male - Matt in the group, who at this point is NOT thinking he is the luckiest man in the world....hehehehe).  The tour, being an intrepid tour means that we need to all help out.  This is two star accommodation, with work to be done!  An adventure.

We sailed for a bit before docking at Ston, which has the largest wall outside of China.  From the salt trading days.  We got provisions (food), and saw a local wedding before all getting a bite to eat at a local restaurant.  I had black seafood risotto!

See the wall:

The others have gone to bed while I'm writing this, but I won't be able to post until I get some wifi at some point.  So posts might be delayed for the next week.

Oh, and there are only four cabins for the eight of us, so cosy night for everyone then!

Copacabana beach

Last full day in Dubrovnik today, so the plan was to hit the beach.  it was a beautiful day too.  But first I had to get rid of my suitcase as apparently we can't take a lot of luggage on the boat tomorrow (although my bet is that everyone will have heaps of luggage except me now).  Before that though, I wanted to call Intrepid.  After several frustrations of not finding a phone that worked after having bought a phone card, and not being able to work out the right prefix to dial (I know - travel 101, but buggered if I could work it out), I just gave up.  I packed my bags (I had purchased a cheap overnight backpack for the boat), I caught a taxi to the bus terminal.  I was planning to send the bag by bus to Split where I had arranged for the people at my Split accommodation to pick it up.

When I got to the terminal, the next bus to Split wasn't leaving until 12.45 so I went across the road to a cafe to wait the time out.  Next to me were two young Aussies from Adelaide.  They had been travelling for four months and they were on their way to Split (the same bus my bag would be on), where they would get on a boat tomorrow and sail to Dubrovnik.  They're doing the exact opposite to me.  We chatted for quite a while, (with Annie and Daniel).  They have also just scored a house in the UK where they will now base themselves and get work.  Ah to be young again.  A lovely couple, one lived in Glenelg, the other in Glandore (I think).  I wished them well and I left to take care of my bag.

From the bus terminal I walked around the port a bit before getting a taxi to Copacabana beach where I spent a couple of hours.  That's another thing off my bucket list (lying on a beach in Croatia)!  The water is so clear and clean, but I really hate the beaches being all pebble and stone.  Not nice to walk on at all.

After the beach I caught a bus back to the old town.  I quickly called my accommodation in Split to confirm they got my email with the details of the bus my bag would be on, and they had.  That was a relief.  I hope they've got it safely stored for me now.  Fingers crossed.   Then I called my mum in Italy, but she wasn't at home.  I think that's the third time in a row that I've called them and they've not been there.  

Having had such a tough day, I really needed a rest so I went back to my apartment for a while.  I rested but didn't sleep.  Or did I grab a bite to eat first?  Damned if I can remember... anyway lunch wasn't anything to write home about.  I really have struggled to find real good food here.  I'm sure it exists though...   

Being my last night in Dubrovnik, I spent some time at sunset just wandering the old town, and harbour.  So beautiful.  I will miss it.  And because I had lunch so late, when I was ready for dinner, I just grabbed a slice of pizza.  

I'm currently just in my room writing this up, and for the first time since I've been here I've turned on the tele.  You can watch tele here because they don't dub the American programs here like they do in Italy.  It's sub titled instead.  So for the first time in my life I've watched Everybody loves Raymond and The Big Bang Theory.