Impressions of five lands

I spent most of yesterday travelling.  I got to Monterosso (Cinque Terre) around 5.15, then I had to make my way through tourists and cobbled stoned streets to my B&B.  They had sent me instructions, but they were a bit murky right when I was literally 20 meters away.  Another lovely lady saw me looking lost and asked where I was headed and pointed me in the right direction.

I checked in, but my room is on the top floor (2nd story) and the only way up is a very very steep set of stairs.  Jon the owner looked at my oversized suitcase and said "that's got my name on it" and carried it up the stairs for me.  What a gem.

I settled in, had a shower then headed out to explore and get a bite to eat.  The town is beautiful and amazing.  And if you lived here, you would have mighty fine calves and hamstrings to boast.  The steep roads and hoards of stairs would have anyone fit in no time.

You couldn't swing a cat in the little shops, but they are so pretty and enticing, and all the terraces are colourful and inviting.

I found a little restaurant that didn't have any tourists in it.  It looked like it specialised in seafood, and given it is a seafood town, it was my intent to eat some type of shell fish or grilled fish.  But I must have been tired, and when I'm tired I want carbs, and given I was planning on trekking the next day, I thought I would stock up!  I ordered Trofie con le pesto.  Trofie must be a local pasta, and it is short and twirled.  It was very good and I ate it all, but it was slightly too al dente for my personal liking.

I went back to my room, intent on an early night, but Raffaela (Jon's partner) had informed me there would be a brass band in the square tonight, and the square was right outside my window.  In fact, if I had of gone out on the balcony, I would have had the best seats in the house.  The night before I hadn't slept well, because I was upset at leaving the relatives, plus getting up early and travelling all day.... so you can imagine my delight.  I mean, most of you would know me as a lover of music, but brass bands....hmmm, nah...  At first it was ok, because I was writing my blog, but when I was ready to sleep, well even the 2nd pillow over my head didn't help matters.  The joys of travel.

This morning I woke, got ready and had breakfast at the B&B (included).  I then skyped Todd and even though I had planned to head off early to make good of the cooler morning temperature on my hike, it was about 10 to 10 by the time I started.  

Monterossa is the Northern most of the 5 lands so my plan was to do as much of the trek today as possible, then do the rest another day by catching a train to the furthermost town.  But I can't say I've had a good start.  First my choice of shoes, whilst suitable started rubbing on my left foot (the right is fine) - I think it's because my left foot is ever so slightly larger than my right, and it just doesn't fit right.  Second, my sinuses have started to play up in the change in weather.  I should have known because I woke with a really sore and dry left eye.  I had to stop every few minutes to blow my nose (one hand was carrying my camera, the other the water bottle).  And whilst it wasn't too hot, when you're trekking, and with some humidity, it can be an irritating combination.  Of course, I was stopping at every photo op along the way.  Last week's lack of exercise, and eating and relaxation regime has also taken its toll!  And to top it off, I stepped awkwardly on a rock and have hurt the joint of my big toe.  Bugger.  I think it just needs to be coaxed back into position, but I don't know how to do that.  So I made it to Vernazza and decided to stop there.

The following photo is of Monterosso at the start of the trek.

Looking back

Impacts of a landslide I presume

Coming into Vernazza

Despite my complaints, this place would have to be one of the most beautiful in the world...and when you're trekking up hundreds of stairs (and I reckon I walked another 100 in error upon taking a wrong turn), and then turn a corner and see the most magnificent vista appear before your eyes.  Well, it can literally take your breath away.  Leaving Monterosso, and looking back was amazing, but approaching Vernazza was simply spectacular.

In Vernazza, I explored a bit and stopped for some lunch which consisted of a chinotto and insalata (letuca, malanzane, peperoni, carciorfi and mozzarella).  Then I found a gelateria and got myself the best ever gelati of baci and nocciola.  It was simply amazing with big chunks of chocolate and nuts.  Yummo!!

Then I was off to find a toilet which was near impossible.  Upstairs at the train station the womens was closed and the mens was pure filth!  Quite by accident about half an hour later I found another toilet at the train station which was half decent.  

I decided that to walk to the next town of Coniglia in the real heat of the day, with blisters and a sore toe would be stupid, but I checked out the map and figured I could catch the train to Riomaggiore, and from there could walk to Manarola as that was a shorter trek.  What I didn't do was pay attention to the parts of the path that were still closed due to a landslide.  I therefore got to Riomaggiore only to be told I couldn't trek to Manarola.  The other path was a 3hr trek.  I ended up spending some time exploring the beautiful town instead.

As I am writing this, I am trying to think if I then caught the train to Manarola, but I don't think I did.  Memory, why do you fail me so?

Back in Monterosso I thought I would wander to the other side of town to explore, and then find a bite to eat there before heading back for an early night.  I was walking along the coast, and spotted a restaurant down a side street that I thought I would come back to.  However when I got back there, there was not a soul in the restaurant so I thought it mustn't be a very good one.  So I went to a place next door and got a seat, there were some locals there eating.  But I looked around and instinct told me to leave (combined with the bad service I was already getting and also the plates of lasagne I could see on another table didn't look great).  I rarely do that, but I got up and walked out.  And, ended up back at the original place next door.  My instinct was right, the place was empty because most of the tables were reserved, but I managed to get a good table at the front.  I ordered a pizza margherita because I have been hanging out for one since I got to Italy.  A glass of white wine, and a salad.  Simple, simple food, but so so delicious.  The pizza was perfect!

I am writing this over two days, so apologies if the time lapse doesn't make sense...

This morning I got up late, had breakfast.  Raffaela told me that the market was in town so I wandered down and purchased a skirt and a dress and looked around.  Then I walked to the beach and caught some rays.  The beaches aren't fantastic here as there isn't much sand, more rocks and pebbles.

I got back to my room, showered and decided I would catch a train to Corniglia and trek to Vernazza.  I got to the train station, and I missed the train by a couple of minutes.  The next train would not be for another hour, so whilst I was planning on grabbing lunch at Corniglia and then starting the trek, I instead have found a restaurant on the beach where I have just enjoyed an insalata Caprese, literally slices of tomato and mozzarella neatly arranged on a plate, and they give you the condiments for you to dress to your taste.  Again, so simple and yet divine.  I am also on my second glass of chinotto.  I am going to overdose on the stuff while I am here.  

I have spent the lunch time writing this update to the blog, but I won't be able to publish until I get me some wifi action!  I now have to head back to the train station.  

Ciao

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After lunch I got a ticket for Corniglio, but whilst I was on the train I decided to go to Maranola instead. Turns out I hadn't been there yesterday.  And spending a bit of time exploring there would mean that it would be later in the day for the trek from Corniglia to Vernazza.  It was a good call.  Exploring Maranola I found a gelateria and had a caffe and notella gelati.  Good, very good, but not as good as the gelati from Vernazza I had yesterday.

At a pedestrian bridge in Manarola:

Wandering around I found via Bel Vedere, given that means Beautiful Vista, I figured it was worth the walk (and stairs), and it was indeed a pretty walk, and then there was a look out point of ocean views.

From there I caught the train to Corniglia.  At the train station I got my ticket for the hike to Vernazza, and was informed there was a bus to take me to the town centre of Corniglia.  When I stepped outside I realised why... 365 stairs pretty much straight up to get there!  Bugger that, I waited for the bus.  The bus was tiny, and hordes of people got off, then on.  It was in the sweltering heat of the day, and the bus was a sauna.  I was wondering why they didn't have bigger buses, but I realised why when the bus had to chuck a u-turn at the end of the road.  People were complaining as they got on the bus, but the bus driver just said it was a 10 min ride and we would be there.

When I got off the bus, I was having a look around before going into the town centre and suddenly, when I turned around at one point, I swear to God I thought I was going to be hit by a black van.  It was reversing and clearly hadn't seen me.  Scared the beejeezus out of me.

I wandered around Corniglia for a bit and also found the lookout at Corniglia, again, simply stunning views.  Then I thought it was time for my trek, I purchased a Granite de Limone for the road, and it was nice and cold and tangy and sweet.  Just what I needed.

Starting off the trek was pretty steep, but I had learned from the day before and made two good calls this morning.  1.  I put on my sandshoes, that would mean I shouldn't have blister and bandaid issues, as well as hopefully helping with the pain in my big toe; and 2.  I took two Demazin for my sinuses.  Both were a God send, and made a massive difference to my general enjoyment of the trek.  Not having to wipe my nose every few seconds was a life saver, and I realised how bad I had felt the day before.  I left Corniglia at 4.40, and got to Vernazzo at 5.50.  It's supposed to be a 1.5 hr walk, and I was taking my time and taking photos!  My big toe still hurts, but I'm back in the game!!

The vistas leaving Corniglia were beautiful, but the vistas at the half way point and leading into Vernazza were again, simply stunning.

Now I am just waiting for a seafood restaurant I have spotted to open so I can eat.

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Ok, so I have just gone back to the restaurant that I wanted to eat at...now, just let me point out that I had been there an hour ago and asked for a seat then, but they said they weren't open til 7.00.  Now I get there and they tell me they're fully booked.  Fuckers could have told me that when I asked for a table an hour ago!

Seriously, the Italians have no idea about the word 'service'.  No idea.  I have gone next door, and have just ordered the 'stuffed mussels' and a salad.  I shall report back.

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Oh, and just an observation.  Some Italian (European?) women should really familiarise themselves with a razor blade if they are going to wear tank tops.  Ewwww....

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So I've just had dinner, but haven't paid yet.  The mussels were amazing.   I don't know what they were stuffed with but they came out in a tomato based sauce.  But the thing about them was that they had a flavour of something that tastes exactly like my mum's stuffing in one of her dishes.  I can't quite place my finger on it, but I think it might be her stuffed artichokes.  The salad, whilst always just a salad is good because in Italy, you dress the salad yourself, so it's always to your liking.

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I'm waiting at the Vernazza train station writing this because I mis-read the time-table and missed my train by a couple of minutes.  As I was sitting here, a group of Americans, a mother and a few teenagers sat near me and started talking about whether they were on the right platform.  I informed them that I think they needed the other platform.  They thanked me, got up and checked the screen, then they came back and told me the screen definitely said this platform.  Now, I know that Monterosso is the Northern most of the five towns.  And I also know that if I'm facing the sea, then I will need the train going right (North) if I wish to go to Monterosso.  So I got up and checked the screen, confirmed my thoughts and went back to the same platform.  I informed them that they were mis-reading the screen and they need the other platform.  They thanked me again then went to the other platform.  I could be wrong, but I doubt it!