Arriverdeci Milano

I forgot to tell you a something from Monday.  As I was waiting at the San Donato train station waiting for my cousin (as he was waiting for me downstairs).  A woman (and Mormon I think) came by wanting to hand me some religious leaflet, she asked if I would read it.  I just looked at her blankly and said, "I don't speak Italian".  She looked confused then walked away.   Bahahahaha  I've done that a couple times now, in Milan you get hassled a lot, people wanting to sell you things.  I love knowing exactly what they're doing and getting one over them!  Suckers.  The strange thing is that English sounds strange, even to me here.

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Yesterday morning I woke up early and once again made my way to the Duomo.  I wanted to go in when it wasn't full of tourists.  I walked straight in (no waiting in line), and I had the place to myself except for a few people there to pray.  What an amazing, beautiful and grand building it is.  So spectacular.  Mesmerising and jaw-dropping.

Then it was time for my usual calazione (breakfast), which once again consisted of espresso and a cornetto (chocolate this time).  I figure I won't be having these sorts of breakfasts in Ireland, so I'm going to eat them while I can.

I decided that I really needed to do something about the weight of my luggage as now I had purchased some things for myself and others, and I really didn't need it with me.  So I went back to my room and organised a pile of things to send home to myself.  I figured that if I had to pay for excess luggage, or pay for a package home then I would be better off.  I then found the post office, and that's when the debacle began!  I won't bore you with the detail, but you know those times when things happen it makes your blood boil, and you just want to scream at someone, but you know it's the system, and not the messenger....  yeah that.  But to give you the short of it, I was in the right place, got sent to the wrong place, told to go back to the right place, then get a ticket and wait for an hour (this is just to do the first step of actually buying a box mind you), only to be told I had to go over to the store (in the same building), and be served instantly.  What made it worse was that I knew I was running out of time, because, hell, we wouldn't want the Italians to work beyond 1.30 now would we!  And I also knew that it was a combination of not understanding Italian, as well as not asking enough/right questions.  Plus, I still had to go back and pack the box and come back again.

Anyway, I got there in the end and it was a relief, both in physical weight (unloaded 4kgs), and a metaphorical weight lifted from my shoulders now that the ordeal was over.

The good thing to come out of it was that I had now explored another corner of Milan central, and what a corner it was!  It seems I had stumbled upon the gourmet food area!  By this time I needed lunch and I struggled to make a decision on where I should eat.  But then I found a bakery, that was so full of people, that I just knew I had to eat there.  I squeezed in the place and saw a bench full of baked sweets, then a bread/pizza area, then a salad/pasta area.  I decided on pizza, this one had tomato, feta and olives, and when I ate it, it reminded of a the flavour of my mum's pizza.  It was amazing!  I'm so going to miss Italian food.  But not one to resist temptation, I then went for dessert and ordered the most amazing piece of chocolate cake.  Fantastico!

The baker at the rear of the bakery with his wood fired oven:

After the stress of the morning and then stuffing my face, I needed to have a siesta.  I was so tired that I slept heavily for about an hour.  I felt really groggy when I woke up, that I decided the best way to deal with that was to do a bit of physical exercise, and I was determined to climb the stairs of the Duomo before I left Milan (I hadn't gone up to the top of the Duomo on my first visit to Milan in 1996). From there I was going to make my way to Nadia and Fabio's house for dinner. 

At the Duomo, I again realised the importance of asking the right questions.  I went to one entry point, got told to go to a second (the correct one for me if I wanted to walk up), get to that one and the guy assumed I was like the people in front of me who wanted to take the lift up to the top and so went to a third entry point.  Was in line for a while before being told I needed to go back to the place I just came from.

Anyhow... I went up the stairs preparing myself for a physically harrowing experience (250 stairs), but it turned out it was actually quite easy!

From the top of the Duomo I could see the entire skyline of Milan, and more of the beauty of the Duomo itself.  Once again making me in awe of the architecture and design and what a feat of labour it would have been for the times.  Amazing.

After spending some time on the roof of the Duomo (half of it was closed off for maintenance), I started to make my way for dinner.  I planned to walk and take a route that Nadia had recommended to me the day before when I had met with her.

The first area to see was the 'Brera' district.  Superb!  An alternative area with funky shops and restaurants.  Lots of spots for 'Happy Hour' where you pay a price and get nibbles included.  There weren't many tourists around this area either.  Then I found another branch of the bakery I had been to that very day for lunch.  It was at this point that the storm arrived (again).  That afternoon as I had headed out, I had looked at my umbrella and thought, "I don't need that anymore", as well as the disposable raincoat!  What a complete idiot!!!  So, what the heck, I just decided to have happy hour there!  I ordered a glass of white wine and grabbed some munchies and found a spot under cover.  It really poured down too, and the biggest crack of thunder and lightning scared the hell out of everyone at one point.  

My view at happy hour, note in the background you can see the 'modern' area of Milan

I passed the National Library on my walked:

The wine wasn't that great so when the rain subsided I started walking again.  I had with me one of those bags that roll up to nothing, so I protected my head with that.  I'm sure I looked exactly like the beautiful people of Milan, not out of place at all...

I walked past a shoe shop and partly to get out of the rain I looked in there and then decided to try on a pair of boots.  They were a short boot, and were great, but thankfully they didn't have my size!

I continued on, and mostly managed to stay dry, but at one point I had to cross a main road, and I was in the medium strip when this car flew past and his tyres went through the huge puddle of water near me.  You don't need me to tell you what happened.  Needless to say, after the day I had, the 'c' word escaped my lips out loud.   Then I just laughed, what more was there to do after all.

Apparently you can even park on the kerb in Italy!

Nadia made the first healthy meal I have had since I've been on my travels  Quinoa and vegetables stir fried.  It was absolutely delicious, and a couple of glass of red to go with it, as well as some cheeses and Sardinian bread for starters meant that I tried some really new and amazingly good food.

My favourite part of the night though was when Nadia and Fabio started imitating their Italian speaking friends from English speaking countries.  They imitated the Irish, the English and the American, and they had me in complete fits.  Nadia, don't you dare imitate me now in my terrible Aussie accent, with my butchered mix of Dialect and Italian!

Nadia lived in Ireland for 18 months, so at the end of the night I was writing down all these places to haunt and eat at in Dublin.  She has got me very excited to be going there!  But I am quietly devastated at having to leave Milan.

To get back to my apartment, I simply had to catch the Tram which stops right outside their apartment, and dropped me about 50 meters from my apartment.  I had no problem getting home at all.  I followed the tram route home on my map, and when we reached the Duomo, I even knew when to press the stop button.

I feel like I have only just begun to scratch the surface of Milan, and I haven't done as much as I wanted to in Italy.  I haven't got to Lake Como like I planned.  I haven't eaten enough.  I haven't explored enough.  No, seriously, I haven't eaten enough!  I haven't had enough gelati, pizza, pasta, cornetti.  I haven't even eaten one canoli  WTF!   I haven't had enough coffee and I need more Shakeratas.  I haven't had one plate of antipasto which I love. I haven't eaten enough fruit or drunk enough chinotto.

But, I have breathed in Milan and it's beauty.  It is stunning.  I love the ancient architecture.  And I love Milan.  

Shakerata

For two days I had been wandering around the city of Milan without a map.  I now had one, and my first order of the day yesterday was to find the Australian Embassy so that I could cast my vote in the Election.  When ex PM Julia Gillard had called the election, I had worked out that I wouldn't be able to vote given my travel dates.  Now that the election has been brought forward, and I am fortuitous enough to be in a city that hosts an Embassy when voting is open, I'll darn well try my hardest to have my say. 

From what I could tell, the Embassy was fairly close, so I made my way towards via Borgogna.  On the way I stopped and had a coffee and cornetto of course, it was delicious of course!  Finding the street proved a bit difficult, but I got there eventually.  I was a bit disappointed, I was expecting a grand building, but the Embassy is just hosted on a few floors in a stock standard building.  Security was tight, people were only allowed in one at a time, going through a scanner, bags checked etc.

The process itself was a bit slow, and whilst I was in the voting room I overheard a young girl tell a story of how, upon her arrival in Milan, on a bus, she had her passport and other things stolen.  When I walked out I spoke to her to check she was ok, she was crying, but there was nothing I could do for her.  She was in the right spot.

I then wandered around the area looking for the Milan Google offices as I was set to meet Nadia there for lunch.  In my roamings I wandered down via Montenapoleone, the fashion street of Milan.  You name the name, their store is there.  It is mind boggling how much money must be spent on this street alone.  I didn't even bother going into the stores, only to be disappointed about not being able to have a Prada bag...

This street is not Montenapoleone...

However, if you're going to be rich, and look like this, I'd rather be poor:

I did some shopping for the kids back home, then at 1.00 I made my way to Google.  I had lunch on Google, then Nadia showed me around.  She then took me for coffee to the top floor of the Renascente building.  (Not unlike our DJs back home.)  I didn't feel like a hot drink, but I did feel like coffee so Nadia recommended I have a Caffe Shakerata.  Which was a cold coffee, shaken like a cocktail, but I think it had a flavouring or a liquor in it.  It was simply delicious.  I might go back there again today!  We lost track of time so then Nadia had to rush back to work.  I stuck around and browsed through the store.

Inside this truck is a phone.  It's a phone booth!

I went back to the apartment and called my cousin Daniele again.  He lives just outside Milan in a small town of Lido, so he instructed me what train I needed and what stop I needed to get off at and we arranged a meeting time of 6.30.  I ended up getting there early, but I had mis-understood him.  He had told me to wait in the station, but I had exited as I thought that's what he had told me.  By 7.00 I was in a bit of a panic, and at 7.10 I went down to the station again to find a phone to call him again.  And that's when I saw him!

He took me back to his place which was 17ks from the station.  Then we went out for pizza with his family.  It is strange hearing a 7 year old talking better Italian than you!  Whilst we were having dinner, once again a storm rolled in, but this time it started to piss down.  I had just, literally, 3 hours earlier taken my umbrella out of my bag, as well as my 'emergency' raincoat.  Just when I needed them the most!

Daniele and Anna were contemplating driving me all the way into Milan, but I wouldn't let them, and then they wanted that I at least take their umbrella.  But given they would never see it again, I wouldn't allow that either.  So they drove me back to the train station and I made my way back to the city.  By the time I got out at the Duomo it was about 11.30, and it was raining (but at least not pissing down in a torrential downpour).  I contemplated grabbing a taxi back to the apartment and even started to walk towards them, and then thought that was stupid and walked back to the apartment.  I was looking like a drowned rat by the time I got in.  But at least I was home safely.  The whole situation had actually been quite harrowing!

The Last Supper

This morning I was up bright and early and out the door at around 7.20am.  I had an appointment with Leonardo.  Not wanting any unexpected delays I decided to grab a taxi to Santa Maria Della Grazie and get the Metro back.

I grabbed an espresso at a bar, then made my way through Piazza Duomo where I started wondering where everyone was, I mean, I wasn't expecting to see any tourists at that hour, but I was expecting to see the Milanese making their way to work.  It wasn't til a couple hours later that I realised that it was Sunday.  One of the joys of travel is losing track of what day it is.  Ahhhh.

I took a few photos this time.  When you travel folks, get up early!  Two reasons.  1.  Is you'll get the best light for photos, and 2.  The tourists are still asleep.  I actually have a photo of The Duomo with very few people out the front!

At The Last Supper I was glad that I had an early morning appointment.  They only let 30 people in at a time, and only for 15mins at a time.  In my group there was only 9 of us.  On entry, they lock one door behind you before opening the next.  They tell you loud and clear, no photos, and there are signs everywhere that cameras are not allowed.  So I was a little annoyed when some clown took a photo, but the photo police nabbed him, and made him delete the photo!

After 15 mins, out the other door we went.  I decided to use their toilets (sorry, another toilet story) because surely it would be clean.  But I got in there and the previous female had peed on the toilet seat.  Sit on the toilet and aim straight bitch!

Then I went across the road to grab my breakfast, cornetto of course.  Delicious of course.  Then I thought I should try and find a metro entry point.  I was guided by some signs, but soon realised that I was following 'no parking' signs.  Never mind, something will turn up, I thought.  I followed my gut instinct for where the Duomo should be, and happened across a couple of key historical sites.  The first was one of six ancient 'gates to the city'.  I kept wandering and found myself at the Basilica Sant Ambrogio (construction started in 370).

Milan (or should I say Italy) has some of the most beautiful churches.  The art and sculptures are magnificent, and the architecture astounding.  It's enough to turn even a cynic like me back to Catholicism.  Almost.

Then I stumbled across Piazza Borromeo, then Piazza San Sepolcro.  By this time, I was close enough to the Duomo that there were signs pointing in the direction.  So I just walked the rest of the way in.

After doing a spot of shopping at Zara (I don't normally shop at Zara, but I found a couple of classic pieces, a black deep v back dress and a red jacket, all for 109€), I went back to the apartment.  Skyped Todd then had a power nap.

Then I went back to Central Milan and grabbed a foccacia for lunch and did some window shopping.  After wandering around for a while I found some phone boxes and decided to call my cousin Daniele.  He told me he was working but I will call him again tomorrow and try and catch up with him tomorrow night.  As I walked away from the telephone box I had to cross the road.  I was at a pedestrian crossing, was fairly sure it was safe to cross and as I was in the middle of the road this dude in a white car came screaming around the corner.  He was going so fast, I actually thought I was going to be critically wounded (ok, those weren't my exactly thoughts, but I nearly shit my pants ok!), he wound down his window and apologised profusely.  I was too stunned to reply.  I just looked at him like an idiot.

After that I found my way to the chocolate shop I saw yesterday.  I tried to order waffles with chocolate and strawberry, but they had run out of waffles.  So I had to settle for the crepes.  What a shame.  I have just finished eating them, and I am so full...  Todd, I am going to come back fat!

I have found a shady spot and am writing this outside the Galleria.  I have the Galleria to my right, Statue of Leonardo to my left.  I am sitting under a tree.  Definition of happiness right there.

This photo is of the Galleria, also taken early morning when there was not a soul about.

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After relaxing for a while, I went and had a second date with Leonardo.  There was an exhibition actually right at the end of the Galleria - if you look at the above photo, at the end on the left.  The exhibition was exhibiting new interpretations of his work.  There were models of drawings he had in his folios, as well as digital imaging of the folios, and descriptions of the lengths scholars and the like have gone into to try and put it all together and understand his thinking.  What a genius.

After that I just walked and walked and walked.  Just generally either window shopping or admiring the buildings, taking photos, breathing Milan in.  Made it to Castello Sforzesco which I think now houses museums but I didn't go in.  By this time I was thinking I needed to get back to the apartment.  As I was heading back, that storm from last night decided to reappear again at pretty much the same time too.  I got back to the apartment and was knackered so had another nanna nap...  Have woken up just in time for bed time.

I seriously love this city.  So so so beautiful.

Tomorrow I'm planning on heading to the Australian Embassy, which by the looks is nearby, so I can vote!  Yay!  Then I'm going to head to Via Montenapoleone which is Milan's shopping district.  Then we'll see where the day takes me.

Bombolone, life is good.

Just a few notes:

I found out that the custard filled doughnut I ate yesterday is called a Bombolone.  I found that out because I went back to the same cafe this morning for a final 'cornetto', and someone in front of me ordered one.  

I have to say I am loving ordering food in Italian and getting what I want.  It boosts the ego.  Although, knowing a bit of Italian can also be a curse because I start a conversation in Italian, and then the response comes in proper and fast Italian, and I realise I have got my knickers in a knot and understood...well...nothing!  Haha, that'll teach me for being a smartarse!

Yesterday when I was in Riomaggiore, I was just having a relaxing moment watching people walk by when I saw a female tourist struggling with her luggage up the steep incline of the Main Street.  She had to stop and wipe the sweat off her brow.  I nearly laughed out loud because I had the thought that maybe there were lots of lifts scattered around the place, and that the locals took great pleasure in directing tourists via the hardest, longest route possible, all the while having a good ol' laugh at us.

Out of the five towns I think Monterosso is probably the 'least steep'.  So if you're planning on coming, there's a tip for you.  Or at least book a hotel right near your arrival point.  I also think it is my favourite, but that could simply be because I have stayed here and explored it the most.

I am currently at the train station waiting for my train.  I sit here with a very heavy heart!  Raffaela said before I left that I should be happy as I'll be going to Ireland (after Milan - she doesn't like Milan).  Also that it was going to rain for the next two nights.  Perfect timing!  And so I should (be happy)!  Also huge shout out to Jon who carried my bag down the stairs.  I'm going to have to do something about that excess luggage.

Arriverderci Cinque Terre.

xx

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I'm on the train now and on my way to Milano.  What a debacle with my luggage.  First, no lift (that I could see) so I had to haul my ~22+ kg luggage up 2 flights of stairs, then when the train arrived I needed carriage 4, but as I was making my way down the platform (running by the end), all the carriages seemed to say 1..then 2..  I saw an actual official train guy (the first one I have spotted to date), and he told me I was at 7.  So I then had to trace my steps, running again.  I had been reading the wrong number.  Doh!

Any how, the real story is, I finally got my seat on the train and the young guy next to me immediately started chatting.  Within minutes he was chatting me up.  No, seriously he was, I kid you not!  I don't have tickets on myself, but I know what was going on...   Then came the killer question, "do you have a boyfriend?".  Bahahahaha.  Yes I said, and then wondered how the conversation would have ensued had I lied.  Then he asked "how is life in Australia?", and just to rub salt in the wound, I responded with "bellissima!".

A few stops later he got off, and I was quietly relieved.  

A family of three then got on and next thing I know curtains are being drawn, and the buxom lady is getting changed in the cabin - skirt off, sitting in her knickers.  Then a struggle to get the jeans on, then top off, top on, no... that won't do, top off again, another top on.   Ahh we are settled now... Lets see how the rest of this train ride unfolds.  This is turning out to be quite an eye opening trip!

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Back again, and still on the train.  The little boy from the family of three is watching me do my sudoku puzzle on my iPad.  He is about 4 yo I reckon, and he is so cute and funny.  He keeps looking over and as I complete the puzzle I am getting all these oohs and ahs, it's all very cute and has the whole cabin laughing.  The family has also started talking to the other girls in the cabin.  I'm the only one who doesn't understand.  I think they're talking a German language.  Although, I did hear them say the word Lindt, then the mother describing a souvenir Lindt chocolate you could buy.  I understood that! Chocolate, the universal language it seems.

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Another update from the train.  It seems the mother is still having clothing issues.  I think she is hot and sweaty.  The other two girls in the cabin have got off at a stop and two men replaced them.  Apparently this doesn't deter this woman.  Under her tshirt she takes off her bra and replaces it with her bikini top.  Quite an amazing feat. But she has an audience, outside the cabin, a man is ogling her the whole time.

Then I needed to make a trip to the loo (again, sorry for the loo stories), but that was a task within itself.   This train is completely 'choccas'.  Besides all of the cabins being full, there are fold down seats in the aisle (all occupied), as well as a multitude of people standing in the aisle.  I don't know how Italian rail gets away with it!  On top of that the food trolley is in the middle blocking any hope of passing through!

All good, got there in the end.

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So I arrived at Milan Central, another loo story which I won't bore you with.  Seriously, I must have the bladder the size of a pea.  Any way I decided, given the luggage situation that I would just grab a taxi to my apartment even though I figured it wasn't to far from Milan Central, it just wasn't worth the hassle struggling with luggage on the Metro.  Glad I made that decision because the taxi ride only came to 9€.  I successfully managed the interactions with the taxi driver entirely in Italian.

After I settled into the Apartment, I decided to go for a wander and grab a bite to eat.  By this time it was about 4.30 and I hadn't had any lunch.  I left the apartment, and about 200 meters later I realised I didn't have my document with me that had the name and address of the apartment.  I figured though, that I had my bearings ok from the taxi ride, as long as I could get back to The Duomo.  I quickly made a note in my iPhone, from memory, what I thought the name and address was.

I then found a spot for a snack and ordered a bruschetta (classica), and a chinotto (I know, I'm so predictable).  It was all ok, but at one stage the owner of the restaurant started absolutely yelling at one of the staff.  Now sure, it wasn'lt peak hour, but there were a few customers outside and it was really inappropriate.  What a bitch!  

The meal, plus chinotto, plus bottled water (water had been free at all the restaurants I had eaten at until now), cost me 19€.  Whoa...Time to watch the pennies in a big city!

I think got to the square, decided NOT to take a photo of the Duomo, as the it was right in the middle of the day, and decided I would get up early one morning instead to try and get a better photo, and also to try and avoid the hoardes of tourists.

I wandered to the Galleria, and I think this building is just beautiful by the way.  I almost prefer it to the Duomo, then found La Scala, then got a bit lost.  Saw a `Magnum' shop (yes Magnum icecreams), and I think you could 'make your own' (in terms of toppings I think), but there were so many people in the store I could barely walk in.  Then I saw a chocolate store, which, well I'm not quite sure what it sold, but people were walking out with icecream cones, and again there was some sort of make your own thing going on, but again, so many people I didn't bother.  But I think I will go back to that one!

Any way, most Italians you talk to that don't live in Milan, don't actually like Milan.  Raffaela was saying she didn't like it because it was a working city, and everyone is busy.  So I think it is a lifestyle thing.  But as I was walking around, I just fell in love with it, even more than my first visit.  It is just so so beautiful.  Every building is worth looking up for.  As I was wandering I literally didn't know which street to take because each one looked amazing, but then what if I missed out on something down one of the other streets?  I did get a bit lost because down one street, I just wanted to explore another, then another.  I kept my bearings ok though and made it back to the Duomo.

This is Leonardo:

But I only decided to head back, because a storm was rolling in.  The clouds looked threatening, and the weather had started to change.  You could feel the air change around you.  I wasn't dressed appropriately for a storm, so I thought I better get back to the Apartment.  It was a thunderous storm, but it didn't last long, but by the time it all settled, I was settled too...

Tomorrow morning I am booked in to go see "The Last Supper".

Portovenere

This morning I was up quite early and had breakfast at the B&B again, then I found the post office and paid 10€ to post four postcards to Australia.  I don't think I'll be posting too many of those going forward!  People will just have to content themselves with updates on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Blog....!

Then, even though I had eaten breakfast, I went to a local cafe/bar where the other day I had seen the most magnificent pastries being fresh delivered.  I ordered a cafe latte (flat white) and one of the doughnuts that were filled with vanilla custard.  The doughnuts (no hole in the middle) were not dense at all, rather, almost 'empty', and there wasn't too much custard in the middle.  It was bellissima!

The plan for today was to get a ticket for a scenic boat tour to Portovenere.  It is a large boat that travels between all five towns of Cinque Terre and then goes on to Portovenere, and there is also an option to take a smaller boat to three nearby islands.

I got on the boat and took a seat downstairs because upstairs looked full, but I sat on the bench on the side of the boat so that I was facing into the seats in the middle of the boat.  People watching is one of my favourite pastimes after all.  The boat was filling up quickly, and imagine my delight when four strapping young dark haired men walked on, and the seats immediately in front of me were vacant.  Alas, they walked on by and settled elsewhere.  However, you can then imagine my elation when the fattest woman on the boat, (wearing only a bikini I might add) parked her fat arse in that very seat!  Managgia la miseria!

But I digress... I had never heard of Portovenere before now but it appears you could throw a dart at the map of Italy and you wouldn't be disappointed.  Once again I was delighted at the rows of colourful apartments lining the esplanade on arrival.

(Note how blue the waters are.)

Now I know you don't care to know every time I have to go to the toilet, but I have to tell you that when we docked in Portovenere I found the first 'pristine' public toilet I have ever seen in Italy.  Most have been nothing short of disgusting.  I had to pay 0.50€ for the privilege, but I gladly would have paid more!  It was as clean as my own toilet at home!  A pleasant, pleasant surprise.

Then I made my way to the castle ruins, but I didn't follow the crowds of tourists on the slow incline up, I chose another more scenic route, up about 150 stairs.  So pretty.  The castle was nothing short of spectacular, and looking around you just have to wonder what poor bastards had to slave away to build it, and how, and also how the darn thing was engineered in the first place.  Amazing.  

The castle sits at the peak of a bay, and so from most corners of the castle you have spectacular views of the ocean, nearby islands and Portovenere itself.  Obviously that was by design, in order to have good visibility of the enemy approaching, but by golly gosh what a sight for travellers to enjoy!

After exploring the castle, I made my way to the little church at the peak of the bay, then wandered back into town.  I stopped for lunch in a little authentic restaurant, and enjoyed a hearty plate of spaghetti con pesto.  The flavours in this pesto were fantastic.  I savoured every bite.  It is a great thing knowing that you can literally go into any restaurant in these little towns and be assured you're going to get the real deal.  (I rarely eat at Italian restaurants in Australia, because you can usually be guaranteed a better meal at home.)  At the end of the meal they gave me a complimentary dessert wine with biscuit.  Winning.

I ended up spending so much time in Portovenere that I missed the boats to the three islands.

It was such a pleasure to stumble upon this little delight today.  Usually when I travel I know what I'm going to be doing when.  But I had no plans for Portovenere, so I think that makes this little gem all the more stunning.

On the boat back, I decided to stop at Riomaggiore again, just to remind myself of the place.  And then I got the next boat back direct to Monterosso.  I made my way back to the B&B and showered and rested (because I've clearly exhausted myself on this trip so far), before stepping out for a quick light meal.  After today's spaghetti, I didn't want too much, so I just had an Insalata Caprese.  It wasn't as good as the one from yesterday, not too mention that about four flies wanted to be my friend and share my food.  I spent most of the meal waving my hands about... I think the least the staff could do was wave a palm leaf over me... Jaysus...

I then went into a shop and finally purchased a leather bag I had eyed off when I first got here.  And managed to get 5€ off the price.  Is that good?

Tonight is my last night in Cinque Terre, and I am so very sad to have to leave in the morning.  I can feel my heart breaking.  I even had fleeting thoughts of re-organising my travels so I could stay longer, but that would mean missing out on something else.  So I must leave.

Impressions of five lands

I spent most of yesterday travelling.  I got to Monterosso (Cinque Terre) around 5.15, then I had to make my way through tourists and cobbled stoned streets to my B&B.  They had sent me instructions, but they were a bit murky right when I was literally 20 meters away.  Another lovely lady saw me looking lost and asked where I was headed and pointed me in the right direction.

I checked in, but my room is on the top floor (2nd story) and the only way up is a very very steep set of stairs.  Jon the owner looked at my oversized suitcase and said "that's got my name on it" and carried it up the stairs for me.  What a gem.

I settled in, had a shower then headed out to explore and get a bite to eat.  The town is beautiful and amazing.  And if you lived here, you would have mighty fine calves and hamstrings to boast.  The steep roads and hoards of stairs would have anyone fit in no time.

You couldn't swing a cat in the little shops, but they are so pretty and enticing, and all the terraces are colourful and inviting.

I found a little restaurant that didn't have any tourists in it.  It looked like it specialised in seafood, and given it is a seafood town, it was my intent to eat some type of shell fish or grilled fish.  But I must have been tired, and when I'm tired I want carbs, and given I was planning on trekking the next day, I thought I would stock up!  I ordered Trofie con le pesto.  Trofie must be a local pasta, and it is short and twirled.  It was very good and I ate it all, but it was slightly too al dente for my personal liking.

I went back to my room, intent on an early night, but Raffaela (Jon's partner) had informed me there would be a brass band in the square tonight, and the square was right outside my window.  In fact, if I had of gone out on the balcony, I would have had the best seats in the house.  The night before I hadn't slept well, because I was upset at leaving the relatives, plus getting up early and travelling all day.... so you can imagine my delight.  I mean, most of you would know me as a lover of music, but brass bands....hmmm, nah...  At first it was ok, because I was writing my blog, but when I was ready to sleep, well even the 2nd pillow over my head didn't help matters.  The joys of travel.

This morning I woke, got ready and had breakfast at the B&B (included).  I then skyped Todd and even though I had planned to head off early to make good of the cooler morning temperature on my hike, it was about 10 to 10 by the time I started.  

Monterossa is the Northern most of the 5 lands so my plan was to do as much of the trek today as possible, then do the rest another day by catching a train to the furthermost town.  But I can't say I've had a good start.  First my choice of shoes, whilst suitable started rubbing on my left foot (the right is fine) - I think it's because my left foot is ever so slightly larger than my right, and it just doesn't fit right.  Second, my sinuses have started to play up in the change in weather.  I should have known because I woke with a really sore and dry left eye.  I had to stop every few minutes to blow my nose (one hand was carrying my camera, the other the water bottle).  And whilst it wasn't too hot, when you're trekking, and with some humidity, it can be an irritating combination.  Of course, I was stopping at every photo op along the way.  Last week's lack of exercise, and eating and relaxation regime has also taken its toll!  And to top it off, I stepped awkwardly on a rock and have hurt the joint of my big toe.  Bugger.  I think it just needs to be coaxed back into position, but I don't know how to do that.  So I made it to Vernazza and decided to stop there.

The following photo is of Monterosso at the start of the trek.

Looking back

Impacts of a landslide I presume

Coming into Vernazza

Despite my complaints, this place would have to be one of the most beautiful in the world...and when you're trekking up hundreds of stairs (and I reckon I walked another 100 in error upon taking a wrong turn), and then turn a corner and see the most magnificent vista appear before your eyes.  Well, it can literally take your breath away.  Leaving Monterosso, and looking back was amazing, but approaching Vernazza was simply spectacular.

In Vernazza, I explored a bit and stopped for some lunch which consisted of a chinotto and insalata (letuca, malanzane, peperoni, carciorfi and mozzarella).  Then I found a gelateria and got myself the best ever gelati of baci and nocciola.  It was simply amazing with big chunks of chocolate and nuts.  Yummo!!

Then I was off to find a toilet which was near impossible.  Upstairs at the train station the womens was closed and the mens was pure filth!  Quite by accident about half an hour later I found another toilet at the train station which was half decent.  

I decided that to walk to the next town of Coniglia in the real heat of the day, with blisters and a sore toe would be stupid, but I checked out the map and figured I could catch the train to Riomaggiore, and from there could walk to Manarola as that was a shorter trek.  What I didn't do was pay attention to the parts of the path that were still closed due to a landslide.  I therefore got to Riomaggiore only to be told I couldn't trek to Manarola.  The other path was a 3hr trek.  I ended up spending some time exploring the beautiful town instead.

As I am writing this, I am trying to think if I then caught the train to Manarola, but I don't think I did.  Memory, why do you fail me so?

Back in Monterosso I thought I would wander to the other side of town to explore, and then find a bite to eat there before heading back for an early night.  I was walking along the coast, and spotted a restaurant down a side street that I thought I would come back to.  However when I got back there, there was not a soul in the restaurant so I thought it mustn't be a very good one.  So I went to a place next door and got a seat, there were some locals there eating.  But I looked around and instinct told me to leave (combined with the bad service I was already getting and also the plates of lasagne I could see on another table didn't look great).  I rarely do that, but I got up and walked out.  And, ended up back at the original place next door.  My instinct was right, the place was empty because most of the tables were reserved, but I managed to get a good table at the front.  I ordered a pizza margherita because I have been hanging out for one since I got to Italy.  A glass of white wine, and a salad.  Simple, simple food, but so so delicious.  The pizza was perfect!

I am writing this over two days, so apologies if the time lapse doesn't make sense...

This morning I got up late, had breakfast.  Raffaela told me that the market was in town so I wandered down and purchased a skirt and a dress and looked around.  Then I walked to the beach and caught some rays.  The beaches aren't fantastic here as there isn't much sand, more rocks and pebbles.

I got back to my room, showered and decided I would catch a train to Corniglia and trek to Vernazza.  I got to the train station, and I missed the train by a couple of minutes.  The next train would not be for another hour, so whilst I was planning on grabbing lunch at Corniglia and then starting the trek, I instead have found a restaurant on the beach where I have just enjoyed an insalata Caprese, literally slices of tomato and mozzarella neatly arranged on a plate, and they give you the condiments for you to dress to your taste.  Again, so simple and yet divine.  I am also on my second glass of chinotto.  I am going to overdose on the stuff while I am here.  

I have spent the lunch time writing this update to the blog, but I won't be able to publish until I get me some wifi action!  I now have to head back to the train station.  

Ciao

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After lunch I got a ticket for Corniglio, but whilst I was on the train I decided to go to Maranola instead. Turns out I hadn't been there yesterday.  And spending a bit of time exploring there would mean that it would be later in the day for the trek from Corniglia to Vernazza.  It was a good call.  Exploring Maranola I found a gelateria and had a caffe and notella gelati.  Good, very good, but not as good as the gelati from Vernazza I had yesterday.

At a pedestrian bridge in Manarola:

Wandering around I found via Bel Vedere, given that means Beautiful Vista, I figured it was worth the walk (and stairs), and it was indeed a pretty walk, and then there was a look out point of ocean views.

From there I caught the train to Corniglia.  At the train station I got my ticket for the hike to Vernazza, and was informed there was a bus to take me to the town centre of Corniglia.  When I stepped outside I realised why... 365 stairs pretty much straight up to get there!  Bugger that, I waited for the bus.  The bus was tiny, and hordes of people got off, then on.  It was in the sweltering heat of the day, and the bus was a sauna.  I was wondering why they didn't have bigger buses, but I realised why when the bus had to chuck a u-turn at the end of the road.  People were complaining as they got on the bus, but the bus driver just said it was a 10 min ride and we would be there.

When I got off the bus, I was having a look around before going into the town centre and suddenly, when I turned around at one point, I swear to God I thought I was going to be hit by a black van.  It was reversing and clearly hadn't seen me.  Scared the beejeezus out of me.

I wandered around Corniglia for a bit and also found the lookout at Corniglia, again, simply stunning views.  Then I thought it was time for my trek, I purchased a Granite de Limone for the road, and it was nice and cold and tangy and sweet.  Just what I needed.

Starting off the trek was pretty steep, but I had learned from the day before and made two good calls this morning.  1.  I put on my sandshoes, that would mean I shouldn't have blister and bandaid issues, as well as hopefully helping with the pain in my big toe; and 2.  I took two Demazin for my sinuses.  Both were a God send, and made a massive difference to my general enjoyment of the trek.  Not having to wipe my nose every few seconds was a life saver, and I realised how bad I had felt the day before.  I left Corniglia at 4.40, and got to Vernazzo at 5.50.  It's supposed to be a 1.5 hr walk, and I was taking my time and taking photos!  My big toe still hurts, but I'm back in the game!!

The vistas leaving Corniglia were beautiful, but the vistas at the half way point and leading into Vernazza were again, simply stunning.

Now I am just waiting for a seafood restaurant I have spotted to open so I can eat.

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Ok, so I have just gone back to the restaurant that I wanted to eat at...now, just let me point out that I had been there an hour ago and asked for a seat then, but they said they weren't open til 7.00.  Now I get there and they tell me they're fully booked.  Fuckers could have told me that when I asked for a table an hour ago!

Seriously, the Italians have no idea about the word 'service'.  No idea.  I have gone next door, and have just ordered the 'stuffed mussels' and a salad.  I shall report back.

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Oh, and just an observation.  Some Italian (European?) women should really familiarise themselves with a razor blade if they are going to wear tank tops.  Ewwww....

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So I've just had dinner, but haven't paid yet.  The mussels were amazing.   I don't know what they were stuffed with but they came out in a tomato based sauce.  But the thing about them was that they had a flavour of something that tastes exactly like my mum's stuffing in one of her dishes.  I can't quite place my finger on it, but I think it might be her stuffed artichokes.  The salad, whilst always just a salad is good because in Italy, you dress the salad yourself, so it's always to your liking.

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I'm waiting at the Vernazza train station writing this because I mis-read the time-table and missed my train by a couple of minutes.  As I was sitting here, a group of Americans, a mother and a few teenagers sat near me and started talking about whether they were on the right platform.  I informed them that I think they needed the other platform.  They thanked me, got up and checked the screen, then they came back and told me the screen definitely said this platform.  Now, I know that Monterosso is the Northern most of the five towns.  And I also know that if I'm facing the sea, then I will need the train going right (North) if I wish to go to Monterosso.  So I got up and checked the screen, confirmed my thoughts and went back to the same platform.  I informed them that they were mis-reading the screen and they need the other platform.  They thanked me again then went to the other platform.  I could be wrong, but I doubt it!

Feels like home

It is now Friday, and I am writing this offline and will post when I can.  

I have arrived at my Grandparent's house in Caulonia, Italy.  I have been here since my arrival on Tuesday evening.  My Aunty and Uncle also live here and my Aunty looks like the spitting image of my own mum except about 20 years younger, that I immediately feel like I am home.

This house is in a remote village, things are pretty backward, so I am mostly offline.  I have been washing my clothes by hand, and my Aunty got given her first vacuum cleaner only a year or two ago when my mum came to visit.  I got asked last night, by a cousin, whilst we were out on our "passagiatta", whether we have street lights in Australia.  I told him no, that electricity hasn't arrived yet; I cook with fire and that I've never heard of the Internet.

I have mostly been eating, eating and eating, yet the best meal I have had is a tomato salad made from  home grown tomatoes and some figs.  The heat is debilitating for those here, but I am enjoying it still, although the humidity ain't great.  It is thundering a lot today, but still no sign of rain.  There is no air-conditioning and my Nonna in particular, is really feeling it.  My biggest complaint is that the mosquitos are eating me alive, but thank God I bought some repellent with me.

My Nonna is now totally blind, and it upset me to see her because she is so thin now, however, she has all her wits about her and is still quite independent.  She puts her medication in different spots around the house so she knows which ones to take when.  She does't need my Aunty to help her.  She can even take herself to the toilet during the day.  At night she wears an incontinent pad which she took great pleasure in telling me how comfortable they are to wear.  And if she needs to go during the night she can't bring herself to go in bed, lying down, so she gets herself up, does her business then changes herself.  It's pretty amazing.

My Nonno on the other hand, who, when last time I was here, had far better health than my Nonna, has let himself go.  He basically can't go climbing the hills with his goats anymore because of his knee, feels the land isn't being looked after and is now quite grumpy.  There is nothing to be done.  He got himself out of bed for my arrival, but hasn't been feeling well these last two days.  If he could just change his mentality, we are sure he would be pretty good for his age.

I am loving catching up with all my cousins.  They are beautiful.  My Italian is pretty shite, but I get by ok, but it is times like these that I wish I knew Italian well. I only planned to stay here a week, but now I fear it is too short.  I will have to come back again soon.  Not, in another 15 years.

Just one more thing.  I arrived here on the wonderful wings of Emirates, so had the pleasure of seeing a tiny bit of the Dubai Airport.  I arrived at Rome Airport, and saw a bit more than at Dubai.  "Che schiffo."  Italians, you are rude, and dirty.  Your economy could be fixed in one swell swoop.  You have a lot to learn.

Arriverderci per un pocco.

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Im back.  Just  a quick story.  I have just got back home from a cousins for dinner.  I have one cousin from one side of the family that is engaged to a cousin from the other side of the family.  Feels a bit weird but is nice.  Thank fuck it's not incest...  Anyhow, I got in the car to go back home and my cousin Luca started pissing himself laughing, and I asked him why.  I figured it was because I had said something in my second rate Italian that I pronounced so wrong that it had another, solicitous type meaning.  Luca said, I'll tell you in a sec.  Instead, he moved the car a few meters, then stopped the car.  I said, "do you want me to get out" and he said "do whatever you want to do", still laughing, and then proceeded to walk off to the other car in the driveway.  I followed him and figured he was playing a prank.

A few moments later I realised that he was simply moving the first car as his car was blocked in.

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I haven't written in quite a few days.  I have been busy eating.  On Saturday morning we went to the Marina, which is short for Caulonia Marina (not really a Marina, merely the main town which is by the sea). We had coffee and a cornetto, which is not an icecream, it is like a croissant with custard cream in the middle.  It is breakfast for the Italians.  That's what I call breakfast!  Then we went to the market and my Aunty bought me a dress as a present.  

Then it was time to go to Zio Pietro's for lunch.  I got there and my Zio was outside sitting in the shade, seemingly spending time with one of his dogs who was 'resting' about a metre away.  My other uncle said something about the dog looking dead, but Zio Pietro said, "no that's his spot, he' sleeping".  So I went and had a look, and well, he looked pretty dead to me.  I said to Zio "vedi, che questo cane e morto" (look, this dog is dead).  My uncle said, "no, he's sleeping".  I insisted he was in fact quite dead...that got people coming in for a closer look.  He was dead.

I later found out, that the next day, this dog's puppy freakily, also died - one of the neighbour's dogs had attacked him! 

After lunch I went and visted my Grandfather's sister Zia Nuzza, Maria and Loredana.

The next day I went to another Uncle's house for lunch.  He has a new, younger girlfriend.  Interesting. His house is right on the beach.  Walked down and saw another relative, Ilario Paparo.  Then my uncle took me to see cousins Bruno, Adriana and Fabio was there visiting from Milan.  Then I went to his ex-wifes place where I would be crashing for the night to spend some time with my gorgeous cousins Sabrina and Claudia.

The girls took me out to 'Locri', another town along the coast where there was a temporary bar on the beach - the coast of Italy is full of them in summer.  The Italians erect temporary bars and discos right on the beach, where you can drink, eat and dance the night away.  Anyway, first we got there and found a spot on the beach with their friends, then with sundown we got a spot in the bar, and I did something crazy - jumped in the sea at night time!  The water was so warm, it was amazing.  I've never done that before, but it was truly incredible.  And when me and Sabrina were in the water, quite by coincidence, there were fireworks.  Everyone was jumping in and out of the water.  What a party.

From there we went to Gioisa for a bite to eat with their friends.  We got home about 1.00am.

The next morning we got up quite early so that I could get some things done in town before heading home for the day.  Given it was my last day before heading North, I needed to be home because relatives would be visiting to say their farewells to me.

My Zia Adriana dropped me home and when I got there, my Aunty Teresa was waiting for me.  That night Simona and Vice and kids, and Luca and Chiara were there for dinner.  My Aunty Rosa made Lasagna for dinner.

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This morning I was up at 6.00 and had to say my goodbyes.  Too too sad.  Both Nonni said that they won't see me again. Toto, Rasalba and Chiara accompanied me to the airport.  These shots were taken at Soverato along the way:

On arrival in Milan I called my Aunty to say I had arrived safely as my Nonna would be worried sick about me.

I had to find my way to Central Station in order to get to Cinque Terre.  I got on the right bus, and a girl I was talking to in the check-in line at the airport said she would help me get to Central from the drop off point.  But it turned out I had to purchase a ticket first (go figure), so I had to get off that bus.  I finally found the kiosk for the tickets (signage in Italy is attrocious).  I got on another bus headed for the City of Milan, and a lovely lovely lady overheard me talking to the bus driver about where to get off etc.  She approached me near the end of the trip and said she would help me as the route I needed was on her train line and that she would tell me where I needed to get off etc.

She walked with me all the way to the Duomo train station (I quite easily could have got lost if I had been on my own).  The Duomo was looking spectacular - the last time I had seen it, it was covered in scaffolding for maintenance.  She pointed out sights of interest and told me that on the balcony of the Galleria that day, that Madonna (the singer) would be making  an appearance.  People were gathered in the square in anticipation.  If I had been on my own I would have stopped and waited, but had I been on my own, I wouldn't have known.

We had to walk quite a bit to get to the right entry point and it turns out that I needed to validate my ticket on the bus, in order for that same ticket to be used for the metro.  So, this Signora entered with her ticket, but I was stuck.  This amazing woman had another ticket in her pocket so she gave me that one to validate (she had realised I hadn't validated the one I had puchased).  She then got us on the right train that would take me to Central Station.  She helped me all the way, and wished me well.  I told her I didn't know what I could do for her.  She said "Salute per Australia".  She said she has a son about my age, and wanted to help.  

Whilst I find the paid help of Italy is of poor qualtiy (putting it nicely), the people of Italy are of big heart.  This woman is a fine example.  I will remember her forever I'm sure.

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I arrived at Central Station, but buggered if I could work out where I needed to be from that point.  I wandered around (never finding any paid help along the way, and signage lacking again).  Eventually, after going around in circles a couple of times I found the station and platform.  As an aside, I'm usually a really really good 'packer' but my bag weighs around 22 kgs (I had to pack for summer and Ireland!), and at the platform, this 'marachino' helped me with my bags.  I thought he worked for 'il ferrovia', but no, on finding my seat and putting my bag up on the shelf he asked for money.  I gave him 2€ but I'll be fucked if I know how I'll take the bag down at my stop!

I am typing this on the train to Cinque Terre now.  My real journey has just begun.