Leaving Croatia

Yesterday was fairly uneventful.  I packed my bag, checked out, arranged a taxi for the airport etc. before going to get a last espresso and Krafna from the local bakery.  

I also arranged to meet Isabella from the sailing tour for coffee at 11.00, and I had one last wander around the old town of Split with her before leaving for the airport.

Croatia has been wonderful.  So beautiful, so much history.  The people are fantastic.  The language barrier hasn't been a problem as they all appear to speak English (gosh we didn't even bother to learn to say please or thank you, Isabella pointed out).  The coffee has been great as well as the Krafna and Strudels.  The Sailing trip has been one of the most relaxing times in my life.  It is a wonderful way to travel, with the weather being perfect the whole time. 

I was very nervous about my flights as I only had a 45 minute transfer.  I was flying from Split to Vienna, and from Vienna to Venice.  But I needn't have been concerned.  It was one of the most seamless transfers I've had, and on the plane from Split the screens showed which gate to go to for each transfer.  It all worked like clockwork. 

Landing in Vienna was similar to flying into Dublin, you could see green everywhere.  Landing into Venice however was simply amazing.  You could actually see the whole Island, and I could even see the tower of San Marco.  It was one of those times I was actually grateful to have a window seat (I usually prefer aisle).

Waiting for me at the Venice airport were my cousins Sabrina and Claudia.  They had come to pick me up to take me to Bergamo where they live.  We had to drive 2.5 hours to get there.  That means they spent 5 hours in the car just to pick me up.  I don't know what I can do for them in return.  When we got home (late), we had a bite to eat and went to bed.  The poor girls are at work now, probably exhausted.

I don't think I took one photo yesterday.  So there is nothing to see here.

Walking Split

I had a lazy morning in this morning and had biscuits for breakfast.  There are these wafer biscuits you can buy that I tried on the boat the other day, which I just can't get enough of.  After my shower I went out for my daily espresso.  Then wandered past the fish market, and then went to the green market for some fruit.

The weather was cloudy, but quite hot, and I was expecting rain from the forecast.  But given the heat, I decided I should make my way to the beach.  So I went back to the apartment, got changed and walked to the beach.  It took about half an hour to get there, and yes Todd, I actually got in the water!

When I got back to the town it was really quite late so I wandered around to find myself a salad for lunch (after all the biscuits I'd eaten, I didn't need more than a salad).  I ordered a greek salad, but I've had better.  From there I went to do a walking tour.  The next one was till 5.00 so I had to wait around for a bit.  

The tour guide eventually arrived and he proceeded to show us around the town, providing us with an excellent history and the stories behind all the old walls.  Split's old walls are now UNESCO heritage listed, and for good reason.  So there is a mish-mash of architecture and there is lots of renovation going on, but mostly you notice all the walls of the old Empire or their remnants scattered about the place.  It was a really interesting tour, and whilst I had seen most of the town already, I now saw it with new eyes.  Fascinating.

There was a girl on the tour from Auckland and after the tour ended, we walked some way together.  I was about to ask her to join me for dinner, but she wouldn't let me get a word in edge-wise, so when I did get a word in, I said my goodbyes.

I went back to the apartment and changed into jeans and searched on-line for a restaurant recommendation.  A couple of sites strongly recommended Restaurant Nostromo, and I had seen the restaurant and knew it was close to my apartment so I went there.  It is near the fish market and apparently the owners of the restaurant are also owners of the fish market.  I ordered the prawn risotto, but I have to say I enjoyed the bread (on which I drizzled olive oil and balsamic vinegar) more!  I also thought the waiter was a bit rude so I didn't bother leaving a tip.

From Milna to Split

Yesterday was the last day of sailing for me.  I was leaving the tour early in order to spend more time in Split.  The rest of the group will have spent their last night at Trogir.

At Milna yesterday morning, it was the usual start to the day with coffee and a Krafen from memory.  At around 9.30 we headed off.  The weather was cloudy so we didn't anchor for a swim anywhere, and we pretty much just sailed straight to Split which took about an hour and a half.  Nico reckons he saved our life when we had to sail over the biggest wave we'd encountered yet, created by another boat nearby.  Good work Nico, but I think we would have survived even if you hadn't manoeuvred so deftly.

At Split I said my thanks and good byes to Nico then walked with the rest of the team towards the town.  As we neared, I figured I was nearby to my apartment so then I said goodbye to the crew.  What an awesome week it has been.  One of the best, most relaxing holidays ever.  The weather was absolutely perfect, and the crew amazing.  It was very sad to leave.

I thought I would need to go to a cafe to get online in order to find the location of my apartment, but by sheer luck, I found it virtually immediately.  They had got my room ready early too for me so I was able to check in immediately.  Even better, my luggage had arrived safe and sound.  All things awesome.

The first thing I did was jump in the shower then dried and straightened my hair.  Then I went out to explore and of course I run into the crew.  They were having a drink before heading back to the boat.  After second goodbyes, I wandered around and discovered the markets, and the old ruins.  Stunning.  Amazing.  I stopped for lunch, had an average risotto and skyped Todd, then went back to the apartment and skyped from there.  Exhausted or no reason at all, I had a nap.

After waking I went out for another wander and a bite to eat, which consisted of cevapi in a bun with sauces and salad.  It was amazing!!!

Sailing, we are sailing

Three coffees this morning, by the time we sailed away from Stari Grad!  We stocked up on provisions this morning, had our coffee and wifi fix and sailed away.  But this time we really did sail.  We travelled for some time before Nico said that there was sufficient wind to put the sails up, and for the first time this week, we all had to work together, muscle up and put the sails up.  It was an excellent experience.  And when we turned the engine off, we suddenly noticed the sound of the waves crashing, although the sound had been there all along.  It was calm and peaceful, the sun was out, and all was good in the world.

Unfortunately the wind died away relatively quickly and we had to bring the sails down again and turn the engines back on.  Nico sailed to another beautiful spot with a secluded beach.  The waters stunning.

Here is a photo of Karen, Kate and Dee all jumping into the water at once.  The aim was to get an action shot.  We've been practicing all week.  Although this is a good shot in terms of timing, I didn't realise that the girls are actually blurry in it.  Oh well, we had fun trying.

After a swim and lunch and just idling in this beautiful part of the world for quite some time, we eventually sailed off again, this time the destination of Milna on the island of Brac.

Nico reversed the boat into dock, only to be told we couldn't park there, so we had to go to the Marina which wasn't too far away.  And at the Marina there were proper showers that we could use.  Dee and Amy went off for a shower and soon after so did I.  It was nice to be able to stand under running water, without having to turn it off to wash your body or hair, to save water.  And so even though I wasn't due to wash my hair, I did anyway, just because the luxury was available.

When I got back to the boat, some of us went out for a walk and took some photos.  Including this one using the timer function.  It was quite a feat getting onto the wall and facing the right direction within ten seconds.  (Isabella is missing from this group photo, and Nico of course.)

Karen and Kate in similar colour clothing against this amazing coloured garage door.

After the walk and photos we went for a drink, then went to dinner.  It appears that there is some boat race happening though, and there are lots of people in town and we had to wait for an hour for our pizzas to arrive.

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Post published day after.

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To Hvar and Stari Grad

Potentially these posts are getting very boring for the reader.  I feel like I'm not doing anything and have nothing to report except that I laid in the sun, we sailed, we stopped off at a gorgeous old town in Croatia, we ate, we sailed again, and repeat.  Well yesterday was no different, except that for me, the landscape is still magnificent, and I am still enjoying every single moment, and that I am more relaxed than the day before (if that's even possible).  

For me, the days are running into each other, and because I didn't write this post last night, and I am writing on Thursday morning, I can't remember where I was exactly yesterday morning.  Oh well, I don't suppose it really matters.  I do know that the weather was potentially the hottest day we've had yet.  And it was just beautiful sailing to Hvar from wherever we were.

Hvar wasn't really on the itinerary, but Nico kindly stopped there for a few hours so we could explore the place for a bit.  We had to walk a bit to get to the town, but everyone appreciated the exercise.  (Seriously, we have been doing beautiful nothing in the most non-boring way ever.)  We all stopped and had a coffee/iced coffee.  The others wandered off, and I think they went to the old walled town.  I stayed back at the cafe a bit longer then wandered around the town.  Up narrow alleys and stairs, just exploring.  Lovely.  I purchased a cute little t-shirt from a tiny shop in a back alley.  Nico had told us that Hvar was a party town and when I strolled along the wharf I saw all the boats and the pile of Aussies disembarking.  Definitely very 'touristy', but gorgeous all the same.

From Hvar we sailed around the island to Stari Grad, a beautiful little spot.  So quaint and so pretty.  We all split off and wandered around the town taking photos.  I had a drink at a bar before meeting the others back at the boat so that we could make our way to dinner.

For dinner I had Sea Bass and salad.  Dee had a fish stew which I had a taste of, and it tasted exactly like the one my mum makes.  So authentic and home made.  Delicious.  Nico ordered a variety of desserts for us to try, but I was too full and just tasted two of them.  After dinner the others stopped into a bar for a night cap, but I went back to the boat for an earlier night.

This morning I got up and went to the local bakery for a Krafen (amazing), and I am just sitting here writing this at a cafe after my espresso and flat white.  The sun is shining, it is another beautiful day.  But I have to say I am surprised at how many Europeans still smoke.  I have had to move tables because second hand cigarette smoke was really getting to me this morning.  It appears smoking is still the social norm, and accepted.  It is disappointing that I can't have a coffee without cigarette smoke bothering me.  I hope this changes soon...

Coffee, Sailing and Spoons

This morning I awoke with a bit of a hangover.  I drank far too much last night.  But the morning consisted of all of us going out for coffee after we were all up, but before anyone had eaten breakfast.  We also had to fill the water tank which took a bit of time so I took the opportunity to get rid of some rubbish and recycling we had collected over the first few days.  Kate and I also went out and had another coffee.

After breakfast and with the water tank now full, we sailed off.  And we sailed for a bit before stopping for lunch and a swim.  After lunch I had to go have a snooze as I had quite a hangover.  I didn't help matters when, getting onto the bed I hit my head on the roof of the cabin.  I now have a big lump on my head.  

I don't know how long I slept for, but I felt a bit better afterwards.  And we just sailed off to a small island.  When we arrived, I helped anchor the boat, but poor Matt has been stuck with doing most of the crew work.  The bay of this island is beautiful and the waters turquoise.  We just chatted, listened to music and wasted time.

Nico cooked dinner again tonight, and everyone loved it.  Pasta with chicken, pancetta and zucchini in a cream sauce.

After dinner we just talked some more, then played a bit of celebrity head, then we went inside and played the card game spoons, which was all very funny.

We are still anchored in the same bay, at a secluded island, with only a couple of boats around.  We are staying here the night.  Not a sound to disturb us.  Peaceful bliss.

If I was any more relaxed I'd be in a coma.

This post will be published when I get internet probably sometime tomorrow.

The measure of Kwells

This morning I was up early, after I had best the nights sleep last night.  One of those sleeps where you wake up and you know you've rested.  A couple of others were up but I decided I needed to go out for an espresso.  This time I wandered in the opposite direction of where I had gone yesterday.  I saw a bakery and got a slice of Apple strudel (I probably should have gone the cherry but the apple is so trustworthy), then I got an espresso from another cafe.  

Lady N

I got back to the boat and everyone had left and only Karen was around.  She got herself some breakfast and then we lazied on to get a coffee.  Karen was worried that all the others had gone to the lakes in the National Park so we went back and checked with Nico and he told us they had.  We then grabbed the next shuttle to the Lakes.  We stopped at the most beautiful place in the world and went for a swim.  Then we sunned ourselves and went for a walk.  We knew we had to be back at the boat by 11.00, and so at about 10.45 we started to wander back and then commenced down the wrong road.  Ten minutes in we realised and turned back and were lucky enough that we happened to score the van back into town straight away.  We thought everyone would be waiting for us, but as this is such a relaxed holiday, we should have known they would be having coffee etc.

On the boat, and we were on our way.  I pretty much just listened to music and sat in the sun whilst we sailed for quite some time before we anchored.  Nico started making lunch whilst everyone else went for a swim.  I helped chop garlic and tomatoes, but Nico made a great pasta.  All whilst we were anchored in the most beautiful part of the world.  Indescribable.

After lunch we sailed to Korcula where Nico dropped us off.  By this time I had already had a few wines (with lunch), and we went exploring through the town of Korcula.  

We then went to this cocktail bar that had the narrowest of steps/ladder to the top of an old tower.  At the top we all ordered cocktails and I sat on the old wall and started chatting to this guy who was sitting by himself.  Turned out he was Italian and he spoke little English.  His name was Mauro, and we spoke for ages.  He was riding around Croatia.  He was such a lovely guy.  We were laughing about how these old ladies would feel sorry for him and they would offer him bed and breakfast for only 40€ because he must have been "absolutely exhausted" after his ride.  

After navigating our way down the ladder down to solid ground, we found a place to eat and I had a lovely chat with Dee and Kate.  After dinner the girls wandered into a nearby jewellery store where I managed to very quickly, purchase three items!  But trust me, I paid a lot less for them than had I purchased them in Australia!

From there we grabbed a taxi to the port where Nico and Lady N would be waiting for us.  Having had a couple more wines at dinner, I really should have known better, but I went with the others to a nearby pub.  For some reason I started talking Italian to the waiter and the others were wondering why I knew he spoke Italian.  I didn't.  But one must try these things.  I had a couple of capiranahs by which time I was well and truly tingling.  The group had a good ol' chat, and a laugh and then eventually went back to the boat where Nico had left the light on for us.  We ate a pack of chips and kept on talking.  Dee said something about how many kwells she had taken today and I joked about how we measure time in kwells whilst on this holiday.  Eventually everyone went to bed.  Which is exactly what I am about to do now.  Good night!

Lady N

Last night felt like one of the worst nights sleep ever.  There were so many strange noises, and the boat rubbing against the fenders (at least I think that's what was happening), sounded like a trumpeting noise right inside the cabin.  I'm sharing with Kate, and she too didn't sleep much and we were both tossing and turning, probably making it worse for the other.  On top of that, there were mozzies coming in through the tiny window, buzzing around us.  One even got underneath my bed cover!  OMFG!

The name of our boat is "Lady N" (for Nina?).

And then this morning at around 6.30, I was well and truly wide awake, so I figured I may as well get up.  I tried to make as little noise as possible and had a shower (interesting experience in a tiny confined space and trying to use as little water as possible).  Then I simply left everyone else asleep on the boat and went for a walk.  I walked along where they collect the salt from the water.  When I got back to the boat I got myself some breakfast and then eventually everyone else got up.

I then had to go get an espresso and so I went to the nearest cafe, ordered an espresso, and then a cappuccino and skyped Todd.  After that I went for a walk along the great wall where I met up with Amy, Dee and Matt.  We spent a bit of time watching a video about the history of Ston too.

By 11.00 we were all on the boat again and off we sailed.  And pretty much we have done nothing.  For part of the day I lay on the front of the Catamaran and caught some rays.  Chatted to the others.  Then we had lunch, and Nico had a go at us (the crew), for having gone shopping and not purchased olive oil and salt.  Good point.  We stopped for a swim at a beautiful secluded beach.  It was gorgeous.  So pretty.  I felt like it was a site from the movie 'The Beach'.  Then we sailed for quite a while and stopped again for another swim, where even Nico got in the water this time.  At this anchor, we stayed for quite some time and we were all chatting on the boat.  It was lovely.  This is the life.

From there we sailed to Polace.  I got off the boat pretty quickly and took off up into the National Park.  After quite a way up the road I saw this gravel road that if I tripped and broke a leg, no-one would have found me till God knows when, but I was determined to get down to the shore, as I knew this is where it would lead.  I walked down, and through the trees I could peak at the crystal clear blue water.  But I was well and truly horrified by what I saw when I got to the waters edge.  The water had washed up what rubbish ends up in the sea, and there was just all these bits of plastic underneath my feet.  It was awful.  Little bits of everything, just so much awful plastic.  This is a beautiful piece of the world, and as I was walking down I was so excited to have this place to myself, instead, I was disgusted by what I saw.  I was then reminded of a documentary I saw or it might have been a YouTube video about how much plastic ends up in the sea, and then the fish ingest it, and all sorts of implications there on in.  People, you MUST RECYCLE.  It is so god-damned important.  And don't be so bloody wasteful either!

I hiked back up the trail, then down the hill I had come up, to get back to the boat.  After everyone was back at the boat we all went to the restaurant for dinner.  I had groper fish (did I spell that right?), which was lovely, and almost like eating a piece of steak.

Being as exhausted as I was though, I left my money for the dinner and went back to the boat to try and get an early night.  Although I suspect that will be fruitless as I will hear everyone when they get back.  Let's see how we sleep tonight.

 

Catamaran to Ston

Last day in Dubrovnik today.  Usual start to the day, but got a good cappuccino as well as espresso today, and apple strudel for breakfast!  Winning!

I pretty much just packed after breakfast then hit the beach, nay, wharf.  Yep, just laid my beach towel down on the cement with the locals and caught me some rays.  Spoke to an English guy who was on holiday with his mates.  They were all jumping in to the water off the rocks.  Me and this kid, turns out, both have relatives who have paralysed themselves by diving into waters.  So we just thought they were nuts.

I went and had pizza for lunch, which wasn't too bad, then went back to the wharf again and watched this old local guy shampoo his hair in the sea water.  Yep, he just grabbed the bottle of shampoo, soaped himself, rinsed it in the sea water, soaped himself again, then rinsed it off by going for a swim.  What the fuck?

At around 2.00 I caught a taxi to the meeting point.  Met some of the others on the tour.  One of the first conversations I had with Deanna and Amy was that we were worried that the group would be 20 year old Aussies, as which point we had all decided separately that we would just ditch the tour and go our own way.  I cannot tell you my relief when I met them.  They were two gorgeous girls, so friendly, and with the same thought processes as me.  Scary!  Lisa, I have to tell you, Deanna reminds me of you in so many ways, that I just can't describe.  I already love her because of how she reminds me of you!  She talks like you, sounds like you, and in some ways thinks like you.

The skipper, Nico, then introduced himself to us three and told us that we were very lucky.  We had scored a catamaran.  The boat we were supposed to have had broken down.  The catamaran is so much bigger.  

We then met the others (total of eight of us including the skipper) and made our way to the boat.  We familiarised ourselves with the boat, learnt a few terms, and headed on our way.  Some way along we anchored, and a few brave people jumped in and had a swim (I should point out that there is only the skipper and one other male - Matt in the group, who at this point is NOT thinking he is the luckiest man in the world....hehehehe).  The tour, being an intrepid tour means that we need to all help out.  This is two star accommodation, with work to be done!  An adventure.

We sailed for a bit before docking at Ston, which has the largest wall outside of China.  From the salt trading days.  We got provisions (food), and saw a local wedding before all getting a bite to eat at a local restaurant.  I had black seafood risotto!

See the wall:

The others have gone to bed while I'm writing this, but I won't be able to post until I get some wifi at some point.  So posts might be delayed for the next week.

Oh, and there are only four cabins for the eight of us, so cosy night for everyone then!